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I do what Jesse suggested and pipe everything through GMail. The GMail web interface is *excellent* when used as a standalone application (more detail on Mona's thread here). I know you've been using mac.com and mobileme for a while but I have a feeling you can make it work through a different interface. Call a GMail wizard like Steve Rubel or someone to help you hit the ground running.
The Exchange thing seems to hinge on "Exchange ActiveSync" or something. Are you suggesting that your office doesn't have that turned on for some reason? I'm not sure how to help there.
Tunneling workarounds are sadly common in today's office environment. It's not at all uncommon for me to have to load a page on my iPhone when I discover my office network is filtering it for one reason or another. The upside is it helps give you a new appreciation for sites with mobile-friendly stylesheets.
Good luck Louis, if anyone can figure out how to work under strange new restrictions you can. There's always a way.